Original record summaries, dates and identifiers for this model-year. Records 1–73 of 73, ordered newest first. Dated records on this page: Mar 1, 2006–Aug 6, 2026.
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This archive includes service bulletins, warranty notices, software instructions and other communications. Records may repeat or supersede earlier instructions. A model-year association is not proof that a document covers every engine, trim, VIN or reported symptom, or that a repair is free.
NHTSA download snapshot: Sep 28, 2026. These are communication associations for this vehicle, not unique defects. How records are joined and counted.
Aug 6, 2026Service Bulletin/Repair Instructions
LI82.62-P-078631
NHTSA communication ID: 11036101
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Washer fluid system leaks Cause Various possible causes: 1. Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamps or Front Fog Lamps Leaking or Fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (picture 3). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is not leaky and the problem is down to natural physical fogging. • If a pressure drop of more than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Note: Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. See: • LI82.10-P-064766 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamps fogged or droplets forming. Cause Due to its outlet openings, the headlamp is an "open system". This means that acidic gases, moisture, dirt and exhaust gases can penetrate into the headlamp. This can lead to the formation of condensation on the lens of the headlamp. The headlamps comply with all applicable US standards and regulations. Remedy Check housing cover of lamp unit for natural fogging or condensation as per LI82.10-P-078301. If a reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the desiccant packs can be used once the condensation has completely evaporated. Note: Order service covers and desiccant packs based on the validity description. 1. Remove headlamps. 2. Remove all grommets from outlet openings. 3. Seal vent openings with sealing profile. Important: All openings must be sealed carefully for the pressure compensation diaphragm to work properly! 4. Remove existing service cover. 5. Place desiccant packs into the new service covers and bolt down (Picture_01). 6. Glue the new diaphragm onto the intended surface at the service cover (Picture_02). Note: The bonding surface must be clean and dry. 7. Attach service cover with desiccant pack at headlamp. 8. Install headlamp. To ensure that the desiccant pack (absorption) acts effectively, the headlamp has to be air-sealed. Observe or check the following points for this: 1. Seals at the central connector must all be present and correctly fitted (Picture_03). 2. The new transparent diaphragm must be correctly bonded (Picture_04). 3. Check headlamp housing for any external damage.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Headlamp or front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Headlamps comply with all applicable standards. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for a defect. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A Damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system: LI82.10-P-064766. Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Complaint Rear lamps fogged up/not leaktight. Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress).
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Crease formation on genuine leather seat covers in vehicles with low mileage ⢠Objects left on the seats for extended periods of time (pressure marks). ⢠Objects wedged between the seat backrest and seat cushion (e.g. seat belt buckle). ⢠Light initial creases due to vehicle handling. ⢠Light creases in the outer covers originating from the production process (missing finish). Heat treatment of the seat covers using heat gun and plastic wedge. Be very careful to not overheat the seat material!
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Unmotivated Reaction from Park Assist - model series 213 facelift / 238 facelift with option code 235 (active par- king assist) and option code 501 (surround view system)
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
If the customer brakes sharply from a speed of > 30mph, without ABS intervention, there is a single cracking noise from the area of the ESP hydraulic unit
Source components: ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL:AUTOMATIC (ASC) · SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
The purpose of this letter is to advise you of additional benefits that Mercedes-Benz is providing to you regarding your vehicle ownership. What’s Included In our continuing efforts to assure the proper performance of Mercedes-Benz products and to enhance the satisfaction of our customers, Mercedes-Benz USA (“MBUSA”) is further extending the warranty on certain components that are part of the SBC/electro-hydraulic brake system to a total of 25 years and unlimited miles from the vehicle’s original warranty start date. This addendum to the existing SBC Extended Warranty coverage applies to the vehicle regardless of ownership. This warranty extension addendum covers the following SBC/electro-hydraulic brake system components: Hydraulic control unit, hydraulic pump, pressure reservoir, brake operating unit, front and rear wheel speed sensors, brake lamp switch, and
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
The warranty on the SBC Hydraulic Unit for MY 2003-2006 Model 211, MY 2006 Model 219, and Model Year 2003-2012 Model 230 was extended from the original 4 years/50,000 miles to 25 years with no mileage limitation. The SBC Hydraulic Unit extended warranty applies to all conditions that justify the replacement of the SBC Hydraulic Unit and specific listed components under the standard New Vehicle Limited Warranty terms and conditions. Please note that the warranty extension now includes: Model Year 2004-2012 Model 240, and Model Year 2005-2009 Model 199 vehicles. Notes: 1.Always check VMI to determine if a vehicle is covered under the 25 year / unlimited mileage extension. 2.Always close Campaign No. 2005070007 or Campaign No. 2005110001, as applicable, prior to replacing the SBC Hydraulic Unit. 3.Brake fluid changes required as part of the vehicle’s routine maintenance are not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or Extended Limited Warranty.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
In our continuing efforts to enhance the satisfaction of our customers, Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC (MBUSA) has decided to extend the warranty for certain fuel tank components in certain Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Specifically, the warranty on the fuel tank, fuel filter/sender, fuel pump, and related gaskets (collectively the "Covered Fuel Tank Components") for gasoline-fueled, non-PZEV certified Model Year 2003 — 2009 E-Class and 2006 — 2011 CLS- Class vehicles will be extended from the original 4 years / 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) to 15 years, regardless of mileage. This warranty extension applies to covered vehicles regardless of ownership. If during this period your vehicle experiences a leakage from any of the "Covered Fuel Tank Components" described above and it is determined that it is due to a warrantable condition that would have been covered had it occurred during the original warranty period, this warranty extension will cover the necessary part(s) and labor to repair or replace the component(s). It is important that any repairs made under this warranty extension are performed by an authorized Mercedes- Benz dealership. This warranty extension does not cover any other components in the fuel system or otherwise extend any other warranty coverage on the vehicle. Standard warranty terms and exclusions apply to all other components.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Noise complaints when load on backrest frame changes. Affects the driver and front passenger seats. Also perform the remedial action if you are performing work on: - backrest frame - backrest cover or - guide rail of head restraint. If the backrest frame is exposed as a result, the actions must always be performed in order to avoid follow-up repairs.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Noise: A rattling noise may be heard from the area of the chain drive for approx. 2-5 seconds after engine start. And/or: Fault code entries in engine control unit: SIM271DE20: P001177 The position of the intake camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The commanded position cannot be reached. P001762 The position of the exhaust camshaft (cylinder bank 1) is implausible in comparison with the position of the crankshaft. The signal comparison is faulty. P001192 The position of the intake camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The function or the instruction is faulty. P001195 The position of the intake camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The mechanical setup is not OK. P001477 The position of the exhaust camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The commanded position cannot be reached. P001492 The position of the exhaust camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The function or the instruction is faulty. P001495 The position of the exhaust camshaft (cylinder bank 1) deviates from the specified value. The mechanical setup is not OK. P001600 The position of the intake camshaft (cylinder bank 1) is implausible in comparison with the position of the crankshaft. P001662 The position of the intake camshaft (cylinder bank 1) is implausible in comparison with the position of the crankshaft. The signal comparison is faulty. P001700 The position of the exhaust camshaft (cylinder bank 1) is implausible in comparison with the position of the crankshaft.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Apple products (iPhone or iPod) are not charged via the serial USB interface of the COMAND Online control unit (A40/3) in the stowage compartment of the center console.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
This Customer 1 Action has been initiated because certain mbrace subscribers were recently contacted by mbrace informing them that they need to have an i-button call performed to ensure their mbrace device has registered with the Verizon Telematics systems. If the i-button call failed or if the customer was unable to perform the i-button call, the mbrace agent instructed the customer to make an appointment with their dealer to have the issue corrected and/or i-button call performed. The vehicles impacted range from model year 2002 to 2014.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
Malfunctions of various control units and/or on-board power supply problems caused by water in the control unit tray under the driver/front passenger seat (dislocated, pinched or leaking condensation hose)
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: SEAT BELTS, EMERGENCY TENSIONING RETRACTORS. MODEL SERIES 204 (WITH CODES 299 AND 800), 207, 212. SEAT BELT CAN ONLY BE PULLED OUT WITH GREAT EFFORT. AT THE SAME TIME A NOISE CAN BE HEARD FROM THE REVERSIBLE REEL TENSIONER GEARING. CUSTOMER CONTINUOUSLY PULLED ON SEAT BELT STRAP WHILE ADJUSTING THE FIT OF THE BELT AFTER BUCKLING UP (TO REDUCE THE SLACK). THIS CAUSED THE DRIVE OF THE REVERSIBLE REEL TENSIONER TO REMAIN ENGAGED. *PE UPDATED 4/26/12. *KB UPDATED 5/22/2012. *JS
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
XENTRY (MERCEDES): ENGINE WARNING LAMP IS CURRENTLY ON OR WAS ON AND A DELAY FAULT OF THE CAMSHAFT ADJUST TO CURRENT OR STORED IN THE ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. MODELS 171, 203, 209, 211, 219, 221, 216, 230, 164, 251, AND 403. NO MODEL YEARS LISTED. *PE
Source components: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: FOLLOWING FAULT CODES ARE ENTERED IN THE CONTROL UNIT AND DISPLAYED-FC5320 DRAIN VALVE:OPEN CIRCUIT OR INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODELS SERIES 211, 219; FC5260 DRAIN VALVE OPEN CIRCUIT OR INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODEL 221; FC5250 DRAIN OPEN CIRCUIT OR INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODEL SERIES 251, 164. DEFECTIVE CONNECTING CABLES TO DRAIN VALVE AT AIRMATIC COMPRESSOR. THIS RESULTS IN THE SETTING OF THE FAULT CODES. NO MODEL YEARS LISTED. *PE
Source components: SUSPENSION:FRONT:SPRINGS:AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM · SUSPENSION:FRONT:SPRINGS:AIR SUSPENSION:LINES AND FITTINGS.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: CRACKING/CREAKING NOISES FROM FRONT AXLE WHEN VEHICLE IS SUBJECT TO TORSION OR WHEN STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED. THIS IS MAINLY HEARD WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY OR WHEN THE VEHICLE IS MOVING SLOWLY. RELATIVE MOVEMENT BETWEEN THE FRAME TYPE INTEGRAL SUPPORT AND STEERING PLATE CAN CAUSE THE PLATE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE FRAME TYPE INTEGRAL SUPPORT OF THE FRONT AXLE, WHICH IN TURN CAUSES NOISES. *PE
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: AIR MATIC VISIT WORKSHOP DISPLAYED WITHIN INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. MODELS 164, 211, 219, 221 AND 251. INCLUDED 4MATIC, AMG (COMPRESSOR) AMG, BLUETEC AND WAGON. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE UPDATED 9/18/09. *PE
Source components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM · ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: THE FUEL LEVEL INDICATED IN THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DOES NOT MATCH THE ACTUAL FILL LEVEL. THIS MAY BE CAUSED BY A FAULT IN THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR FUNCTION CHAIN: HYDRAULIC AND ELECTRICAL LINES AND THEIR CONNECTIONS, REAR SAM OR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. *TT UPDATED 2/23/09. *PE UPDATED 9/18/09. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES: SRS INDICATOR LAMP ON. THE SRS LIGHT IS ILLUMINATED AND DIAGNOSTIC FAULT CODE(S) B9223 AND/OR B9243 ARE STORED IN THE SRS ECU. THE RESISTANCE OF THE IGNITION SQUIB CIRCUIT FOR THE SIDEBAG MAY BE TOO HIGH. MODEL 211. ALL MODEL YEARS. *PE
Source components: AIR BAGS · AIR BAGS:SIDE/WINDOW.
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
MERCEDES BENZ SERVICE CAMPAIGN: SEE DOCUMENT SEARCH BUTTON FOR OWNER LETTER. CHECK FUEL FILTER MODULE ASSEMBLY AND REPAIR OR REPLACE IF NECESSARY. MODELS 211 AND 219 AMG. MODEL YEARS 2003-2006. CSC WAS RECEIVED. *PE
NHTSA source summary · Original PDF not reviewed by Recallfolio
STEERING WHEEL HEATER NOT OPERATING CORRECTLY OR INOPERATIVE AT COLD TEMPERATURES. MERCEDES BENZ MODEL 211. MODEL YEAR UNKNOWN. *TT MODEL 211 (E SERIES). UPDATE 8/8/2008. *PE
Source components: STEERING: STEERING WHEEL/HANDLE BAR.