2010 Mercedes-Benz
GLK350Problems & recalls

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Components: STRUCTURE:BODY. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Components: POWER TRAIN. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Potential corrosion on the rear axle carrier Cause Due to market-specific conditions such as moisture, ingress of dirt and/or environmental influences, corrosion can occur on the rear axle carrier Remedy In the event of a complaint, the optimized repair method must be used when replacing the rear axle carrier. The repair method for the respective model series can be found in the attachment. Repair packages are available in Xentry Repair Packages for the special processing of rear axle carriers Note: Please utilize flexible wand (319-SAT1058826) along with the Cavity Preservation Gun (W 000 588 03 72 00) for cavity wax application to improve coverage and reduces labor efforts. The flexible wand may be obtained through the Mercedes-Benz Standard Service Equipment Program website.

Components: SUSPENSION. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Creaking noise, in irregular sequence when driving slowly in combination with slight steering movements and/or Creaking/crackling noises from the area of the wheel bearing on the front axle when cornering/ maneuvering. Sound file attached for comparison. MUST match noise for proper diagnosis. NOTE: Steering functionality is not affected. Cause Contact area between wheel bearing and steering knuckle. See also: LI35.30-P-058566 (Throttle Lift-Off Noise - Rear) LI33.30-P-056665 (Throttle Lift-Off Noise - Front) LI40.10-P-059248 (Wheel cracking noise when cornering) Remedy 1. Perform Operation A and evaluate by testing vehicle. 2. If noise is still present after re-testing: • If 192/232 chassis, verify FIN is in the listed range below in "Operation B" and perform. • If not 192/232 chassis or vehicle is a 192/232 not in the listed FIN range, additional verifications of where the noise is coming from are needed. Use multiple channel NVH method to narrow down location. Verify the LI's listed above were completed or if there are other similar noises associated with the chassis (Example: 192/232 also has under panel noises and an associated LI). Operation A: 1. Clean contact surfaces of wheel bearing and steering knuckle with brake cleaner (see areas marked blue in pictures "2.jpg" and "3.jpg"). NOTE: The front area of the wheel bearing and the seals must not come into contact with the cleaner, otherwise, the sealing rings will be damaged. 2. Clean threads of wheel bearing mounting. 3. Thinly coat contact surfaces of wheel bearing, steering knuckle, and axle mating face with Molykote (annular joint grease) (see areas marked blue in pictures "2.jpg" and "3.jpg"). NOTE: Axle mating face greasing is also covered in LI35.30-P-058566 and LI33.30-P-056665. Operation B (Only applies to 192 and 232 in listed FIN range): Only affects vehicles up to FIN end number: • Model series 192: xxx xxx xx 002 876 • Model series 232: xxx xxx xx 022 312 1. Replace steering knuckle. 2. Wheel bearings do not need to be replaced.

Components: SUSPENSION. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Creaking noise, in irregular sequence when driving slowly in combination with slight steering movements and/or Creaking/crackling noises from the area of the wheel bearing on the front axle when cornering/ maneuvering. Sound file attached for comparison. MUST match noise for proper diagnosis. NOTE: Steering functionality is not affected. Cause Contact area between wheel bearing and steering knuckle. See also: LI35.30-P-058566 (Axle Half Shaft noise when changing direction - Front) LI33.30-P-056665 (Axle Half Shaft noise when changing direction - Rear) LI40.10-P-059248 (Wheel cracking noise when cornering) Remedy 1. Perform Operation A and evaluate by testing vehicle. 2. If noise is still present after re-testing: • If 192/232 chassis, verify FIN is in the listed range below in "Operation B" and perform. • If not 192/232 chassis or vehicle is a 192/232 not in the listed FIN range, additional verifications of where the noise is coming from are needed. Use multiple channel NVH method to narrow down location. Verify the LI's listed above were completed or if there are other similar noises associated with the chassis (Example: 192/232 also has under panel noises and an associated LI). Operation A: 1. Clean contact surfaces of wheel bearing and steering knuckle with brake cleaner (see areas marked blue in pictures "2.jpg" and "3.jpg"). NOTE: The front area of the wheel bearing and the seals must not come into contact with the cleaner, otherwise, the sealing rings will be damaged. 2. Clean threads of wheel bearing mounting. 3. Thinly coat contact surfaces of wheel bearing, steering knuckle, and axle mating face with Molykote (annular joint grease) (see areas marked blue in pictures "2.jpg" and "3.jpg"). NOTE: Axle mating face greasing is also covered in LI35.30-P-058566 and LI33.30-P-056665. Operation B (Only applies to 192 and 232 in listed FIN range): Only affects vehicles up to FIN end number: • Model series 192: xxx xxx xx 002 876 • Model series 232: xxx xxx xx 022 312 1. Replace steering knuckle. 2. Wheel bearings do not need to be replaced.

Components: SUSPENSION. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Components: EXTERIOR LIGHTING. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Commissioning not possible after replacement of TRANSMISSION 722.9 or of electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS) or of repair kit controller unit (VGS). Cause The wrong older A-code ("Generation EHS") is documented in VeDoc for the newly installed transmission or the newly installed electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS)/repair kit controller unit (VGS). Old VGS2 hardware A0335457332 (from quick test) New VGS3 hardware A0034460310 or A0009018008 (from quick test) Remedy Delete the old A-code and redocument the new A-code in VeDoc, then perform commissioning. A. If Diagnosis at the vehicle is possible: To determine the correct EHS item number, the currently installed EHS/VGS hardware should be read out first: In XENTRY Diagnostics via the tab "Control unit view" - "Current quick test" - "Fully integrated transmission control" - "EHS part number". Order the new EHS with this read-off item number. DAS: "Quick test" - "EGS - Electronic transmission control serial number". Order the new EHS with this read-off serial number. B. If Diagnosis at the vehicle is no longer possible, The number must be read off directly from the EHS, and the ordering process must be initiated using this number. Exception: For engine 629 with transmission 722.9, EHS A220 270 24 06 must be installed. Read-off part number is A 220 270 12 06 In this case, the following must be observed for making a correct order: Exclusively for model 219.356, 171.456 with transmission 722.906 up to and including model year 2005 (code 805) A 220 270 12 06 is no longer available --> Please install EHS A220 270 27 06 and document A92 in Vedoc If this does not work, please open a TIPS case and provide both the original EHS part number/A code and new EHS part number/A code Read-off part number + old A-code in VeDoc --> EHS item number and new A-code ("Generation EHS") J valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A28/A29: A2202701306 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706, delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706, delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc A2202701206 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706 delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc O valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A45: A2202701206 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc A2202702106 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc P valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A46: A2202701906 + code A46 --> A2202703006, delete code A46 and document A97 in VeDoc A2202702206 + code A46 --> A2202703006, delete code A46 and document A97 in VeDoc N valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A39: A2202701206 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc A2202701806 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc M valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A38: A2202701406 + code A38 --> A2202703206, delete code A38 and document A96 in VeDoc A2202701906 + code A38 --> A2202703206, delete code A38 and document A96 in VeDoc K valve body plate VGS3 with old A-code A30: Old A-code A30 --> delete code A30 and document A93 in VeDoc N valve body plate VGS3 with old A-code A27: Old A-code A27 --> delete code A27 and document A95 in VeDoc

Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Components: POWER TRAIN. Confirm detailed applicability in the original document.